Why is Leather Considered Luxury?
J.L. Rocha Collections
Why is Leather Considered Luxury?
J.L. Rocha Values
Our brand comes from a country where leather is a part of our history, yet: we recognize it comes in all shapes, sizes, and price points. Leather however, has been commonly regarded as a luxury since ancient traditions across the globe and civilizations. When we interrogate the subject, we’ve determined the key reasons why leather is considered luxury to the best of our knowledge and research.
Leather is considered luxury for three reasons:
1. Leathers historic durability and versatility.
2. The efforts used to produce a high quality leather.
3. Status and exposure of historic leather users in society.
This article will outline those reasons in detail below.
Historic Durability
The history of luxury leather.
The History of Leather Usage:
Early History
Animal hide has been used as an animal byproduct since our primitive ancestors began hunting for food. They recognized leathers use for protection and warmth, while later developing new techniques for preservation and longevity. According to Moore and Giles:
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Wall paintings and artifacts in Egyptian tombs dating back to 5000 B.C. indicate that leather was used for sandals, clothes, gloves, buckets, bottles, shrouds for burying the dead and for military equipment. The ancient Greeks are credited with developing tanning formulas using certain tree barks and leaves soaked in water to preserve the leather. This was the first record of vegetable tanned leather, which became a well-established trade in Greece around 500 B.C.
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Growth, Innovation, and Deviation
Animal hides that are preserved through tanning become what we know today as leather, and as a society we have innovated the practice of creating leather vastly. The Middle Ages brought about a larger aristocracy, thus generating a larger demand for leather furniture, and industrialization expanded the ability to make it at scale. It wasn’t until the birth of the automobile that we see the second largest innovation of leather history:
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The invention of the automobile, the demand for softer, lightweight footwear with a fashionable appearance, and a general rise in the standard of living created a demand for soft, supple, colorful leather. The traditional vegetable tanned leather was too hard and thick for these requirements and thus, the use of chromium salt was adopted and chrome tanning became the standard for modern footwear, fashion and upholstery leathers.
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The introduction of chromium in the production process of leather not only made leather more maleable for upholstery, but also made it possible to tan leather faster while allowing for a bolder color fastness. This invention also created a broad scale deviation socially, dividing the world of leather and bringing to light the question of quality.
Craftsmanship
A key difference that makes a leather luxurious.
Chrome vs ‘Vegtan’
Technical Differences
While we’ve covered the basic differences regarding chrome tanned leathers vs vegetable tanned leathers, but we need to cover the technical differences in production to understand their contrast. Here is an outline of some technical production differences:
Vegetable Tanned Leathers
Are preserved and colored using organic materials (typically bark, plant, vegetable oils, etc.)
Can take up to 12 months to produce depending on animal type, density, volume, and color desired.
Usually conducted in large oak/metal barrels.
The most historically used technique of leather production.
Provides a supple, long lasting, final product that develops unique characteristics over time.
Chrome Tanned Leathers
Are preserved and colored using synthetic materials and chromium salts.
Can be tanned and colored within 24-Hours of processing.
Made through machine processes, or tanned in cement barrels.
The fastest most versatile and cost efficient production practice.
Provides a soft, vibrantly colored, final product that may deteriorate over time (depending on quality).
Which Type of Leather is Better?
When considering the quality of leather to invest in there are multiple factors to consider. While at J.L. Rocha, we believe in and rely on the quality of our historic vegetable tanning family techniques, there are many reputable manufacturers of chrome tanned leather that produce an ecologically conscious and quality leather.
If you are considering investing in a luxury leather good, here are our recommendations:
Invest in vegetable tanned leather if:
You would like a leather garment that will last generations.
You want your leather to develop a rich patina over time.
Prefer the natural hand feel of organically treated leather.
Invest in chrome tanned leather if:
Prefer more colorfast garment that won’t develop a patina.
Are looking for a more vibrant color palate on leather.
Are not inclined to perform maintenance or care on your leather garments.
Prefer a thinner, softer hand feel that is a bit more heat and water resistant.
Please keep in mind that not all leathers are created equal, and the most important decision is one that is both ecologically and ethically responsible. We prefer our vegetable tanned leathers as they provide us with more environmentally friendly techniques while preserving our history and the more traditional smells, textures, and complexities of leather.
We also believe that the additional craftsmanship and detail work required of vegetable tanning adds to the value of vegetable tanned leather. Chrome tanned leather or veg-chrome blends are roughly 90% of the leather market, (due to speed and low production costs) and therefore have been considered “less-luxurious” in some circles. The same premise can be used socially in discussing vegan leather (polyurethane) or organic fiber materials used as leather substitutes. This article will not discuss exotic leathers, however their lack of abundance and additional production costs is normally the reasoning for luxury pricing.
If you’d like to learn more about the difference between Chrome tanned and Vegetable Tanned Leathers: enjoy this video from The Gentleman’s Gazette.
Status and Celebrity
The social elements implicit in leather being luxurious.
Leather as a symbol
The original icon
While the history of leather displays the luxury for the affluent who could access it, leather was generally used in military and practical applications before the modern age until in 1928 door-to-door raincoat salesman Irving Schott decided to add an asymmetrical zipper to a leather jacket. The iconic “Perfecto Jacket” became a massive success: taking the United States by storm through union with Harley Davidson, another American classic. The Schott jacket was then thrust deeper into the spotlight when in 1953 Marlon Brando donned it in “The Wild One.”
Quickly after, the leather jacket became a symbol of rebellion and independence, reaching audiences across generations such as the Ramones in the 70s, Guns & Roses in the 80s, and even experiencing a resurgence into the mainstream media after the 90s and early 2000s. Looking at the present, according to Business Insider:
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Nowadays, the men and women who wear the jacket are looking for something else: a sense of heritage and authenticity that you get from wearing a 100-year-old garment that means something different today than it did in the past.
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The Contemporary Luxury of Leather
Understanding the history and craftsmanship of leather provides an appropriate outlook on the historical relevancy of luxury in the leather market. However, contemporary notions of style, wellness, and fast fashion have made leather goods universally accessible across all price points. How then, can an individual understand what investment to make when considering luxury leather goods?
Here are the questions we believe in:
Like Fine Spirits: is the leather born from a region with historic practices and experience?
Like a Japanese Blade: is the leather crafted with meticulous attention to detail and time?
Like a Work of Fine Art: does the leather create a lasting impression that will age beautifully?
Like a Luxury Vehicle: does the leather come from a masterful marriage between practical performance and technical application?
These are the questions that will allow you determine your next investment into luxury leather, with the knowledge of history, craftsmanship, and status that precedes it. While leather is accessible from many locations, we urge our community to care about the quality of their garments as well as their long term use. When investing in luxury leather, it’s best to buy less quantity while focusing on higher quality and longevity.
A well made vegetable tanned leather good should last multiple lifetimes, and be passed down to the next generations.
Final Notes:
Now we thoroughly understand why leather is considered luxury. Leather is considered luxury for three reasons:
Leathers historic durability and versatility.
The efforts used to produce a high quality leather.
Status and exposure of historic leather users in society.
When considering these three details, knowledge is our best tool to invest wisely. We want to thank our community for investing in our families historic practices, and are proud to offer quality focused vegetable tanned masterfully crafted garments that you can pass down through your families.
In joining our history you also join our mission to preserve and honor the value of luxury leather craftsmanship in Mexico. A history that has been present for over 100 years.
Thank you/Gracias.